Rants + Raves

Fraîche Yogurt has moved, and I’m a fool at Philz

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 04:17:04 -0700

Fraîche Yogurt, known for their truly hand-made fresh yogurt (both frozen and non-frozen) has moved to a more visible and much more accessible location at 200 Hamilton. This spot on the corner of Emerson, formerly occupied by A.G. Ferrari (the Italian grocer), not only gets much more traffic but also offers much more room, and more light. The old location, down on Emerson across from the Empire Tap Room, was so narrow that queuing up to order interfered with some people’s eating. I’m sure the rent is a lot higher but I hope turnover ramps up to match. I don’t really see a lot of genuine quality in the come-and-go fro-yo chains; Fraîche has it.

Meanwhile, I finally got into Philz Coffee on the corner of Forest and Alma. I had not ordered coffee there before so I made a total fool of myself. Not being a caffeine drinker, I am not a coffee afficionado. I stay away from Starbucks because I don’t know the vocabulary. I thought Cafe Venetia (formerly Caffe del Doge Venezia) was complicated; then I tried Philz. In case Philz is new to you, be prepared to be confronted with actually having to specify exactly what beans you want and in what style, because every cup is ground and brewed individually. So my first time at Philz I ordered at the wrong place (the cash register) and then I showed my utter stupidity by asking simply for a decaf cappuccino. But the kind and sympathetic (or perhaps pitying) staff calmly guided me through the process. They weren’t even condescending, though they certainly had grounds to be. Oddly, you order a drink by size and there is no price difference between styles (straight, au lait, latte, cappuccino), only by bean type.

Once I got my drink (and avoiding eye contact with other patrons to hide my deserved embarrassment) I settled down to a table to work. I can’t say why, but I found it a very comfortable place to be. The chairs were nothing special (and there are sofas, too) but something about the vibe made me feel welcome. There was a lot of light from the southwest exposure and there was music. Worth a visit, even for the bean-challenged.

Café Bon Vivant “serving” actual meals

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:01:07 -0800

Café Bon Vivant on Bryant just south of University, is open for lunch and dinner but early reports are worrisome. Seems that they have had just one server and an inexperienced one at that. If you’ve had a better (or not) experience please let me know.

Paris Baguette: not really either, but the space is nice

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:00:17 -0800

You can’t miss Paris Baguette on the corner of University and Waverley: it’s so blue. With floor-to-high-ceiling windows facing both streets and blue neon inside and out, it beckons like a beacon. It feels good to be inside and it is a good place to meet and talk. I’m just not sure I’d go there to eat or drink.

Their prepared cakes and pastries under glass look ravishing. They remind me of the artistic baking at Satura Cakes, perhaps not surprisingly because Paris Baguette reflects Asian (Korean-based) origins, too. But if you go there for something akin to breakfast it’s a million miles from Paris. You take a wooden tray, put a sheet of waxed paper on it, and pluck your own metal tongs from the rod. You then proceed around the self-serve island displaying a fairly wide choice of sweet rolls and sticky buns – you know, the ones high in saturated fats. I think there are some plain croissants (and I know there are chocolate ones) but not a baguette in sight. So much for the pain buerre that’s my staple in France. Rumor has it that at lunch you can get a sandwich on a baguette. There were a couple of salads in plastic containers but no evidence of a real kitchen on site.

I am not a coffee afficionado (I avoid caffeine) and at home my regular brew is instant decaf. But even I found the coffee unsatisfactory. One day I simply ordered a decaf and thought it was pretty yucky. The next day they said they didn’t have decaf, as if it were at item they don’t carry. When I pressed them they said they had run out of beans, but they could offer me a decaf Americano. What’s the difference? That was even worse: watery, flavorless. They can make a latte or a cappuccino but nothing at all special, and you can tell that coffee appears more as an obligation than an obsession.

The seating consists of both ordinary chairs and white, backless, sofa-like seating. What’s odd is that the wooden trays (square with high, curved-up sides) are too large for two of them to fit facing each other at a table. So if you and a companion each get your own tray and want to face each other for a conversation at a table, one or both of you will have to empty your tray. The trays are huge and should be rectangular, not square. Did the people who chose this design ever try using them, or observing their customers?

I don’t see deal makers here, like I do at University Cafe. I’m not sure how I could justify asking someone to meet me at Paris Baguette; I feel like I would be apologizing most of the time.

Amber Dhara steps in to replace Junnoon

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 09:57:56 -0800

Junnoon sure set the pace for modern Indian cuisine in Palo Alto so I was surprised to see that it had morphed into Amber Dhara. For many years Amber India (in its varied locations) has been known as the most regal of the traditional Indian restaurants, with the San Francisco SOMA location venturing first into the modern-Indian trend. They are calling Amber Dhara “India’s contemporary cuisine” but I have not been in to see either the menu or the surroundings. I did find Junnoon a bit dark and stark (and pricey).

Hello Patio @Rudy’s, Istanbul Street Food; ’bye Lytton Roasting

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 09:57:21 -0800

The Patio @Rudy’s is well and duly open at 412 Emerson next to Evvia. It’s related to Rudy’s Pub on University but with a more pleasant setting, especially the delightful hidden garden in the back. Still, it’s Rudy’s: sports bar, nightspot.

When Krung Siam (on University between Kipling and Waverley) locked their doors and put up a “closed for remodeling sign” I wondered what the real story was. I then noticed that their sister restaurant, King of Krung Siam on Castro Street in Mountain View, was also closed, which led me to believe that the business had died. Sure enough, it’s gone, and Krung Siam is now Cafe Taxim (or, informally, Istanbul Street Food). You order at the counter but I don’t know any more than that. I’ll stop in one of these days to get the details.

Lytton Roasting Company, the coffee shop at Kipling and Lytton that no one except the litigator ever went to, has gone under. Construction is going on inside but it is not yet clear if its replacement will involve food, retail, or office space.

Next in line: LYFE Kitchen

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 09:56:58 -0800

I must say, the sensation around LYFE Kitchen is not all unwarranted. We enjoyed a most pleasant supper there and I plan to go back. LYFE stands for Love Your Food Everyday and they give you plenty of reason to do that. All the dishes are thoughtfully made, highlighting natural flavors with wisely-used calories (no dish over 700) and low levels of salt and fat. They use no butter, transfats, or high-fructose corn syrup and they fry nothing but they do serve meat. Oh, and no dish costs over $12.99 with the vast majority under $10.

At our supper (it’s not the kind of place where I would call our meal dinner) we enjoyed the farro and beet salad, the barramundi in a Japanese broth, and the butternut-squash soup. Our companions had the plain flatbread (basically a pizza margherita) and the “unfried” chicken (done in the oven). The flatbread was a little plain (I would have ordered the mushroom version) and the portions were not huge, but I wasn’t that hungry and it was all tasty. We were comped a dessert about which the waiter raved (orange sponge cake) but we found it not very moist or tasty. On a succeeding visit my wife and her friend had the Thai soup and farmers salad, both good and healthy. There is a very small but inviting wine list (favoring the Rhone varietals), all available by the glass. When I inquired about corkage I received conflicting answers (no charge, $10); I think it’s $10.

The eating areas are notable for the variety of furniture: high tables and chairs, low tables, straight-backed chairs, plush reclining chairs, sofas, booths, and half-booths. You order and pay at the counter and they give you an electronic puck. When your food is ready, the puck tells the server where you are and they bring you your food. It doesn’t beep or flash. Note that we were able to order dessert and have it brought to us (without paying) because the staff were going out of their way to win customers. We talked to the local manager, who moved here from Chicago to run this restaurant; he is close with the founders, one of whom was Oprah’s private chef. The staff seem to fervently believe in what they are doing. It’s fairly bright and percussive in there, which gives it energy and keeps people moving in and out.

So much good news: let’s start with Vino Locale

Wed, 23 Nov 2011 09:45:42 -0800

I’ve got a lot of good news to report but I want to start with perhaps the least obvious. This is not an opening (or a closing) but rather a transfer to new owners with a new exuberance. Jocelyn Alexander and Debra Szecsei (pronounced say-chay) bought Vino Locale from original owner Randy, who has retired to Sonoma. They immediately staged an art opening (on display throughout December) and are setting about to update both the food and wine selections. The wines, all local (mainly from the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation), are sold by the glass and bottle at meals and the bar and also retail. I’ve often shopped there to buy gifts for out-of-towners, bottles they would never know about (since most think that all California wines come from Napa) or ever hope to find.

But what really feels different about Vino Locale is the sense of excitement. I’m going to try having some business lunches there and I’ve promised my daughter (recently in the wine industry) a food and wine experience and an art one (which she is as well). Jocelyn and Debra are on a mission and I don’t want to miss the ride.

Two more openings, one pending, all low end

Mon, 12 Sep 2011 21:25:50 -0700

The Bar by Madame Tam has taken over the slice between Madame Tam’s Asian Bistro (listed under Chinese on the Restaurants page) and the defunct Satura Cakes, at 320 University Avenue. They have not taken the wall down to create one larger restaurant so they are indeed separate spaces. Menus not so separate.

Subway finally reopened at 205 University, where the phone store used to be. (Previously they were next to Walgreens until that building was torched four years ago.) It’s open 24 hours a day, you know. Just in case.

And it won’t be long before Paris Baguette Bakery Cafe opens in the space formerly occupied by Jennifer Convertibles on the corner of University and Waverley. It will be their tenth location in California, in addition to six on the East Coast. The menu is heavy on breads (both sweet and savory) and pastries (some quite ravishing); of sandwiches it looks like only two.

Three going, two coming

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 19:38:20 -0700

One place is truly closed and two places are being “remodeled” or renovated, which could be factual or a euphemism for “desperately trying to outrun our creditors”. L’Amour frozen yogurt is one of three business in a building undergoing what I believe is earthquake retrofitting. (What was Kan Zeman and Tibet Handicrafts are the other two, on University at the corner of Bryant.) This is probably legit. Krung Siam, across University and a bit east, simply appears closed. The handwritten sign says for remodeling but there is not activity inside to suggest that this is actually the case. Bistro 412 (412 Emerson, next to Evvia) is definitely closed. See next paragraph.

On the positive side, Bistro 412 is being replaced by the Patio @Rudy’s, and LYFE Kitchen (love your food everyday) is hiring and should be opening soon. They’re on Hamilton just west of the Creamery (where Bright Smile was). The Patio @Rudy’s takes over what has been a gem of a hidden patio behind the building, flanked by thin, tall evergreen trees. This version of Rudy’s will be a sports bar (like the one adjacent to the original Rudy’s), so this might be the best place to watch a Giants game on TV out in the fresh air. Right now the only choice is in the alley behind Old Pro, which has the ambiance of, well, an alley.

O Sushi House opened on Friday

Sun, 17 Jul 2011 09:21:22 -0700

Suddenly O Sushi opened, on Friday July 15. The windows giving a view on the renovation of the Avenue (which never opened) were darkened for so long, hence the surprise. The sushi menu is extensive: 24 nigiri sushi choices ($2.95-7.95), 12 hand rolls ($3.50-7.95), 12 vegetarian rolls ($2.95-10.95), and 59 special rolls ($3.95-11.95) plus sushi and sashimi combination dishes. Dinner options also include 22 set dinners ($8.95-13.95), 16 dinner bento boxes ($11.95), and 32 side orders ($2.00-12.95). Lunch specials (18) are $8.95, lunch boxes (16) $9.95. I saw self-serve jars of marinated ginger at the sushi bar (I like this because I need so much) but not on the tables. The tables are dark colored and the exterior walls are all windows, so there is no decor to speak of. It’s bright, not romantic, and the staff seems eager to serve.

O Sushi House is located at 403 University Avenue, NE corner Waverley.

Caffe del Doge Venezia now Café Venetia; what does this mean?

Sun, 17 Jul 2011 08:19:00 -0700

The change is subtle, and if you did not notice the sign change from across the street you probably could not otherwise tell. The two branches of Caffe del Doge Venezia (95 University Avenue in the Caltrain station and 419 University Avenue downtown) have broken off from their Caffe del Doge Italian parent. I’m sure there is some intrigue in the change, but the formula stays the same, as does all the contact information.

Now the cool part: where does this word “Venetia” come from? We know that Venezia is the name in Italian of the city we call Venice, and the region is Veneto. Is Venetia just one of those variations necessary to capture a unique URL? The answer is no. Venetia is indeed the name of Venice, but in Latin.

This reminds me of our experience in Switzerland, where my son was born. Switzerland has four national languages: German, French, Italian, and Romansch (an obscure Romance Language). The official name of the country could not be in one of those four languages (though Switzerland does have a name in each of them) to avoid showing favoritism to one ethnic group. Therefore the name you see on their coins is Confederatio Helvetica, which is Latin.

What category does this go in? LYFE Kitchen

Sat, 9 Jul 2011 13:41:45 -0700

In this compendium I have organized the restaurants by category, reflecting mainly their cuisine but also their style. Some don’t fit very well, such as the little vegan Loving Hut in the deli category, not because it has deli foods (far from it) but because it’s fast and informal. Is that where I should put LYFE Kitchen? Doesn’t seem fair. LYFE (Love Your Food Everyday) Kitchen is the brainchild of Art Smith, formerly the private chef for Oprah. Smith discovered healthy eating (because he needed to) and LYFE Kitchen is the result. Here is the formula:
– fast, casual, tasty, and healthy (but not vegetarian, except the desserts-vegan)
– no high-fructose corn syrup, no butter, no fried food
– no dish with more than 600 calories per serving
– no item over $12.99, and that includes meat and fish

I just got an exact address (167 Hamilton) and I’m listing it on the restaurants page under California. If you can suggest a better category, please let me know.

I tried Oren’s; Kan Zeman isn’t quite dead; and more news

Sat, 9 Jul 2011 12:50:36 -0700

My wife and I tried Oren’s Hummus Shop one Friday evening and liked (not loved) it a lot. They have six varieties of hummus entrées (plain or topped with warm garbanzos, fava beans, both plus tahini, mushrooms, or ground beef) priced from $7.95 to $9.95. You’ll find vegetable, chicken, and beef kabobs ($9.95 – $11.95 for one, $13.95 – $17.95 for two) and large Israeli and Greek salads ($6.95, $7.25). Most interesting, however, are the ten Middle-Eastern side dishes ($2.95 for one, $4.95 for two, $5.95 for three): two versions of babaganoush (Romanian with red peppers and cilantro and regular with tahini), two cabbage dishes (green and red), marinated beets, Moroccan carrots, taboule made with quinoa, matbucha (tomatoes, jalapeños, garlic, and spices), Israeli salad (small) and falafel. (Also regular and sweet-potato fries.) We got one kabob, a mushroom hummus, the Romanian babaganoush, the beets, falafel, and of course fresh-baked pita. It was plenty of food and all really tasty. If you’re facing west you can read their manifesto on the chalk board about real hummus versus store-bought. These people love their food and make it themselves.

There are some desserts baked in small local kitchens by individual people, some nice drinks (Kombucha and coconut water, for instance), and a superbly chosen selection of ten wines available by the glass ($6-9) or bottle ($24-36). (We brought our own, and I think the corkage was $10, which is high for such an informal place.) Service is friendly and casual and I liked the music, but it was not Israeli or Middle-Eastern, just a nice channel on Pandora. Sound reverberates in the place, even with the high ceiling, so I would not have wanted to spend a long evening there. But it was zippy and happy and the hummus and sides are available to go in larger quantities.

I recently reported on the demise of Kan Zeman. Well, it’s not totally dead. They moved the sign to their more informal establishment (Mediterranean Wraps, 209 University, retaining its sign), which makes the same food anyway, and they offer table service, at least out front. They also have the Lebanese wines of Kan Zeman, and I saw the owner hanging out there. So all you Kan Zeman customers need not lament totally.

Now, two other pending additions to the scene on University Avenue. Madame Tam is expanding into the former Sakura Cakes space next door to make a bar. It might or might not be called The Bar. And the capacious northwest corner of University and Waverley (383 University) that for a long time housed Jennifer Convertibles will one day become Paris Baguette, after considerable restoration. As I’m sure you guessed from the name, Paris Baguette will offer a mixture of Korean and French baked goodies and maybe some meal selections, too.

I don’t believe it, and you won’t either

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 13:28:13 -0700

First of all, Red Mango is gone, like a flaming asteroid. For a short while (nine days?) it was the hottest frozen yogurt place in the Golden State. And of course it fiercely denied copying in any matter whatsoever its predecessor Pinkberry, which followed the L.A. phenomenon of being famous for being famous. I found little to like at Red Mango: the fro-yo was nothing special, there were hardly any toppings, and sitting was unpleasant. So I can’t say my heart is broken at its demise.

Much to the satisfaction of the landlord, the space (at 429 University) is already rented and a new establishment will open soon. Care to guess what it is? Could it be a ladies haberdashery? A store for fine cutlery? An experimental space for social-media apps? Wrong, wrong, wrong. It’s going to be – ta da! – yet another frozen yogurt shop (shall we start using the acronym YAFYS?). Not only that, but it’s got an even worse name than Red Mango; here comes Yoppi Yogurt. I can’t tell if it reminds me more of “yuppie” or “sloppy”; hey, maybe it’s a combination of the two! Can’t wait, yah.

And I forgot to mention the sad closing of Kan Zeman

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 22:23:45 -0700

Well, this is disappointing. Kan Zeman, the sit-down Mediterranean restaurant on University near Bryant, suddenly went dark. Sure, you can get their same food across the street close to Emerson at Mediterranean Wraps (the former Andalé Taqueria location) but Kan Zeman had real table service and even reputable wine at dinner. No, it’s not as much fun as Baklava on Emerson, but the latter for sure displays its Turkish roots, not Kan Zeman’s Lebanese ones.

Maybe Kan Zeman suffered from attitudes like my kids’, namely that they would not set foot in the place out of mourning for the Jim’s Coffee Shop it replaced. Does anyone know what happened to the beloved cook there? He was short with legs of different lengths and was a master of the griddle. In the early days of Kan Zeman, the owner retained him and the breakfast menu. Progress is not always better.

I forgot to mention the opening of Yogurtland

Wed, 8 Jun 2011 22:56:57 -0700

Up University close to Cowper where Modernbook resided for way longer than reason can explain, Yogurtland has opened. With sixteen flavors of frozen yogurt and a whole lot of toppings it will probably give L’Amour a run for its money and perhaps even Red Mango (which trades on its brand, not its product). I thought it was fine but I’m not an afficionado so what do I know?

But already it has had a significant effect on the fro-yo clan downtown. By pricing its servings at 33 cents per ounce it has forced others to drop their prices to match (from as high as 47 cents). Goes to show that margin is determined by what the consumer will pay, and competition educates consumers.

And a little bad news

Sun, 5 Jun 2011 17:54:50 -0700

A. G. Ferrari, the Italian specialty grocer with a shop and deli on the corner of Emerson and Hamilton, has closed. The entire chain went bankrupt and ceased operations.

The owners of Pampas also filed for bankruptcy reorganization under Chapter 11 but will remain in operation. The goal is not so much to clear out debts as to preserve assets in the face of some unspecified litigation.

Of course Da Coffee Place is closing, to be replaced by the Red Brick Cafe, but that’s not really bad news to me.

O Sushi on the corner of Waverley and University shows no signs of opening yet (where the Avenue was supposed to open). And construction on the big house next to Tamarine is still seriously not progressing at all. How many years has it been? I have higher hopes for Oren’s Hummus Shop on University (where Zao Noodle House used to be) to actually open someday. As their sign says: “coming sooner or later”. Still nothing but brown paper on the windows where Sakura Cakes used to reside (next to Madame Tam and SliderBar Cafe).

Finally, I’m not sure what to make of the changes at Mantra. I liked Mantra’s modern Indian cuisine and fabulous wine list. The new menu is traditional Indian, not that I don’t like that, but it’s more expensive (and admittedly nicer inside) than most curry houses. The wine list is smaller but for an Indian restaurant still amazing, though too many of the bottle prices are in the $50s and up. The lunch buffet had more meat dishes but fewer salads and desserts. There is also a special set lunch deal and also their box lunch to go. If you try it out, send me your feedback.

Lots of good news (openings)

Sun, 5 Jun 2011 17:32:08 -0700

Biggest news is that Cafe Bon Vivant on Bryant (“Dead Street”) is finally serving food, not just art. The menu is small and quite French in the simple style, and similarly with the wine list. Opened for lunch and dinner without much fanfare, and evinces a sense of comme-ci, comme-ça, no rush, we’ll figure this out. Not the Silicon Valley clock rate but perhaps a refreshing respite.

Coming soon to a hookah shop near you, the Red Brick Cafe will move in soon behind Mills Florist on University at Ramona, replacing Da Coffee Place (and Da Hookah Shop, too, I hope). Owner of the demised Place is on trial for murder and arson (in Palo Alto even) so a change is not surprising.

Coming soon to 101 Forest is a branch of Philz Coffee, the San Francisco roaster that runs a popular coffeehouse on Middlefield Road in Midtown. Look for an expanded menu because of a much larger seating area than Midtown.

Now back to Dead Street. Recall that it got its name after the arson fire above Walgreens took out pedestrian access to one side for over a year. The fire also took out the Subway sandwich shop on University. Well guess what’s coming back as downtown’s first 24-hour place for food: Subway. The new location is at 205 University, next to Häagen Dazs, replacing the AT&T-affiliated cellphone store. I didn’t know we needed food at 3:30 a.m. downtown; I hope they serve donuts.

The Avenue closes before it opens, sushi sliding in; + more fro-yo

Fri, 6 May 2011 23:05:39 -0700

The journey from Taxi’s to Abbey’s to the Avenue reached a dead end before ever arriving at its destination. The Avenue will not open. Most of the remodeling was done but something prevented its finishing. Could it be the competition from those nouveau burger emporia SliderBar Cafe and the Workshop? Instead, the northeast corner of University and Waverley (officially 403 University) will soon house O Sushi. I’m predicting a lowbrow effort, fast and cheap, given the current economy.

Across University, near the corner of Cowper, the vacant Modernbook will soon sport yet another frozen yogurt shop, Yogurtland. Yet another (and yet another use of the term “yet another”) Southern California fro-yo chain (is there nothing else to eat down there?), Yogurtland will count Palo Alto among its ten locations in the Bay Area. Could I perhaps interest you in a pyramid, I mean franchise? They’re available.

And finally, I must salute Oren’s Hummus Shop for its truth in advertising. They are taking their time remodeling what was Zao Noodle House, and plastered across the façade is a big sign proclaiming “Oren’s Hummus Shop – Opening Sooner or Later”.

I have merged Middle Eastern and Mediterranean categories

Fri, 4 Mar 2011 13:39:56 -0800

On the Restaurants page I have eliminated the Middle Eastern category and put the restaurants there into the Mediterranean category. I looked at the categories and frankly could not tell them apart myself. So how could I expect you to?